vogue 2960: cheating when you don’t have enough fabric

in spite of themselves, i sort of love the vintage vogue reprint series.  they make vintage patterns so accessible, and i’m truly happy to support that.  bonus:  the majority of them are great designs with elegance and sophistication, just waiting for a new interpretation.

at the same time, i don’t want to kid myself.  they have ease issues – i had to make the bodice for my version of V2961 twice, and add boning and interfacing, and it’s still too big.  (in fact, i should really open up the bodice and the lining and just do the entire thing over again)  the skirts are incredibly long.  the model photos are occasionally horrifying and often the garments look poorly made.  but they do have potential, don’t they?

i’m happy to report that the fit on this garment is pretty fabulous.  i did have to tweak it in the back, pulling in more than half an inch on each side of the CB, but overall i’m thrilled.  it’s not too low for me, either in the front or the back.  and really, can you tell that two of the skirt panels are tilted slightly off-grain?  (lie to me, people.  lie to me)

yeah, i’m not sure what’s going on with my shoulder blades there, either.

Cutting:
here’s where things got exciting.  i’d picked up this adorable cotton from Mood earlier last summer with plans for making it into a housedress.  and then i had one of those flashes of inspiration/brilliance/insanity where suddenly in your head you see the fabric and the pattern perfectly and veered back to V2960.  except i only had 2 yards.  and Mood was out of the fabric.  so:  the skirt got shorter (above the knee, just below mini-skirt length).  bye-bye, facings.  hello, bias tape!  i had just squeaked everything in to a crosswise-folded length of fabric when i realized that one of the skirt pieces was slightly off-grain.  and that there was no way to straighten the grainline and still fit everything onto the fabric. 

Construction:
firstly, i decided to interface the lower bodice panels with a bit of fusible.  i really wanted them to be firm and structured.  to cover up the interfacing, i lined the lower bodice with a cute hot-pink-magenta bemberg.  i finished the inside seams with a pink bias tape and left off the facings, as mentioned, finishing the major seams at the neck, back and armscye/cap sleeves with pink “quilt binding” bias tape.  in retrospect, i really should have been more diligent about things like thread matching, and the inside is a bit of a hot mess, but overall it’s highly satisfactory (and not the fault of the pattern).

pleating the skirt:  it seemed so easy, and yet i seem to be incapable of attaching a pleated skirt cleanly to either a waistband or a bodice.  i had some major issues here with bits of the skirt getting caught up in the needle.  since the original construction of this dress, i’ve gotten more committed to hand- and machine-basting my pleats up at the waistband for a cleaner finish.

the hem:  maybe it is just me and my off-grain skirt panels, but the hem on this skirt got a bit wonky as i let it hang to stretch out–because wow, did bits of it stretch!  the longest pieces of skirt were at the sides, dipping inches lower than either the CF or the CB seams.

lining:  the skirt is a bit flat so i finished the hem with 1/2″ horsehair braid and a cute hot pink pleated trim.  see my comment about the hot mess above–it’s far from perfect, but it’s completely cute and wearable.


once more, with attitude accessorized for wearing out into the wild
(my sweater is not actually that radioactive.  i hope)
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One Response to vogue 2960: cheating when you don’t have enough fabric

  1. Angie says:

    Thia dress is looking so beautiful! It´s a perfect work! Very well done!
    LG
    Angie

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