vogue 8495: tailoring, finishing and a technique roundup


Vogue 8495 Complete

i’ll start off by saying that, for the most part, i followed the construction order and techniques outlined in Kenneth King’s “The Tailored Jacket.”  supplementally, i utilized “Tailoring:  The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.”  (i didn’t use it on this particular jacket, but i can also recommend the Palmer/Pletsch “Jackets for Real People.”)  using Kenneth’s construction method, my first step was drafting specialized pieces for the lining, under collar, front facing, body interfacing and back stay:

corollary pieces for Vogue 8495which gives me my beautiful, piped lining…

lining for Vogue 8495and interior structure.

interior for Vogue 8495i padstitched the undercollar, roll line and lapels.

padstitching for Vogue 8495 padstitching for Vogue 8495 padstitching for Vogue 8495

in kenneth’s method, the upper collar and lapel facings are inserted as one unit, which has already been pre-shaped to accommodate turn-of-the-cloth.

lapel and collar for Vogue 8495once the jacket body is sewn up, the sleeves, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are inserted.  these photos are from a different jacket made using the same method:

sleeve head

shoulder padthe jacket is hemmed, the facings stitched down, and the lining is inserted by hand, leading you to the finished product.

completed vogue 8495

voila!

completed vogue 8495

with a surprise in the back!

at first (about 14 or 15 months ago), i had a hard time finding links to “advanced” techniques such as padstitching and tailoring in general.  but thanks to great resources like recent sew-alongs (such as the “Lady Grey” at the New Blog for Better Sewing), it’s gotten much easier!

a few final thoughts.  i love this blazer.  i think it is super-chic.  i waited almost a year for the energy and inspiration to finally sit and get it done, and i got it done quickly and, i think, well.  in fact, in spite of several flaws, it may be the closest to “perfect” sewing i’ve gotten on a garment so far.  sewing it was pretty much a joy, not a chore, and isn’t that how things should be?

 

p.s. speaking of Ralph Lauren, this post on his S/S 2012 collection made me gasp, smile and laugh.

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6 Responses to vogue 8495: tailoring, finishing and a technique roundup

  1. Rose says:

    Your finished blazer is impressive. I love it!

  2. Lizzy says:

    Great job!! looks very very similar to that one of Gossip Girl show. I want to do a jacket or coat using all tailoring stuff, but first of all I can’t find that fabric to pathstitch =(

  3. Jilly Be says:

    Everything about your jacket looks FABulous! Love the surprise at the back – what a great job :)

  4. prttynpnk says:

    Wow! All your work and detail paid off- very lovely!

  5. Pingback: lessons learned, garments made, and all of that end-of-the-year stuff | puu's door of time

  6. Pingback: Epic Yale | Charity Shop Chic

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