vogue 7975: seventy hours hours well spent

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as i mentioned yesterday, it’s FINISHED!

back in june, i began this journey at camp chanel. making a chanel-style jacket was a sewing milestone i was determined to reach. i also had some very specific goals, design wise: i wanted a fitted, contoured and cropped look instead of the more traditional cardigan box. i thought these modifications would help me get a more modern, youthful vibe.

inspiration photo from the files of susan khalje

working with this photo taped to the wall next to my sewing machine, i set out to achieve exactly that.

i was especially happy with the three-piece sleeve. there is a subtle curve in the undersleeve that gives it an added couture look, i think.

you can see that subtle curve in the sleeve vent, which i decided to leave cropped and open.

i conquered the dreaded quilting…

and the fearsome sleeve lining.

and i love my pucci lining fabric.

the chain makes a real difference in the weight of the hem – obviously, since that is why it is there – but also looks super-cool.

WOOT.

Pattern Description:
classic princess-seam cardigan jacket with no center front overlap. original pattern comes with a two-piece sleeve; can be redrafted to a three-piece sleeve or substituted for same for a more couture look.

Pattern Sizing:
i started with a size 10 but had it fitted twice through muslins.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes, the pattern envelope gives you a good idea of the possibilities and potential final product.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
i used the instructions from taking susan khalje’s french jacket class instead of the vogue instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
this pattern is a brilliant blank slate if you want a chanel-style jacket in your repertoire, and is definitely TNT if you plan on making more than one.

Fabric Used:
chanel wool boucle from mendel-goldberg in NYC.
pucci lining from mood fabrics in NYC.
chanel-style cornelia brooch from M&J trim in NYC.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
i redrafted the pattern hem to accommodate the cropped, curved hem i was going for. i also replaced the two-piece sleeve with a three-piece sleeve and added additional shaping along the waist by intensifying the princess curve.

i constructed most of it by hand, following susan’s instructions, and quilted the lining to the fashion fabric. the sleeves are hand-sewn, as is the lining, hem, trim and hem chain.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
yes, this is staying in my pattern library for many, many, many more jackets.

Conclusion:
i couldn’t be happier. seventy hours well-spent!

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25 Responses to vogue 7975: seventy hours hours well spent

  1. sewnotwork says:

    What an awesome jacket! Someday maybe I will make one…

  2. sewnotwork says:

    What an awesome jacket! I hope to make one someday…

  3. prttynpnk says:

    Oh, yeah! That is enviable and amazing! Great work!

  4. jlundy6116 says:

    ooh, it turned out so beautiful. Love your jacket, as well as your blog!

  5. oonaballoona says:

    wow. and the pearls. you went all the way.

    stunning!!!

  6. JoanneM says:

    This is the most beautiful French jacket. Is the boucle purple? Both buttons and trim are from MandJ? The color is terrific. I want to make mine in purple, but keep thinking I should be safe using black boucle….
    I was at the sitandsew class in MD the week before Sandy hit, I wondered how the next class would fare…..
    Now- purple?? I wonder if MG still has the fabric you used and do you think 2 yards will be sufficient?
    Once again- it is glorious- the best I have seen so far. You have inspired me! Congratulations!

    • puu says:

      it is purple boucle from mendel, and there is a chance she will have some since i don’t think the fabric was aimed for a specific season. i made mine in less than two yards, but i was the only one in my class who managed it – probably because the shape was so cropped at the hem and even on the sleeves. i wanted the purple with the crazy lining to really make a statement, so i say go for the color :-)

  7. JoanneM says:

    Puu,
    Did the trim and buttons come from MandJ? How much yardage for the trim did you get? I hope they are available online! Thank you for your time!

    • puu says:

      Joanne, the trim and buttons both came from M&J. no idea if they are available online, but for a standard jacket, you need 5 yards of each kind of trim (a lot of the women in my class opted for multiple layers of trim to create gorgeous, custom couture effects on the jackets). susan rightly shut down my ambition to join them, and with my extra band of trim going around my bustline, i used every single inch of the 5 yards i had purchased.

      i used 8 small buttons on the sleeve cuffs.

      • JoanneM says:

        Thank you for your help.
        I am in communication with MandJ……….it may take time for a response…….ahhh patience!!!

  8. Wow the jacket looks fab and I love the combo colours of the fabrics, trims etc. Congratulations

  9. Lovely, lovely work…that is a jacket to be proud of!! All that time and the fraying lining were worth it — you look so classy (but still modern and youthful).

  10. Clio says:

    OMGHOWDIDIMISSTHIS?!?!?!? Oh, right, Sandy black out. HOLYCOWIAMSOIMPRESSED! You definitely succeeded – the shorter hem and sleeve version make it more fun. And I love the lining. Bravo!

  11. puu says:

    i think a tree IN YOUR HOUSE makes up for it. that and your awesome leather jacket which is (almost) giving me jacket envy. :-)

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