pleated trousers!

PLEATED TROUSERS!!!!

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because, dammit, they deserve an exclamation point!!

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and my smug smile of smugness.

obvi.

because who wouldn’t be smug after completing her first pair of trousers and then fearlessly inserting a zip-front fly with a custom-length zipper the resulted in broken zipper teeth flung hither and thither in the sewing room?!

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we’ll try to ignore the partial fail that is my colette nutmeg cami.  try as i may, i just cannot get those patterns to work for me.  it’s simultaneously too big in the top and too short in the top – what?! – and too tight along the side seams while being too wide at the armscye.

i think we’ll just call it a hot mess of gorgeous silk-cotton cammo and move on to happier things.

like my trousers.

and at this point in the narrative, let us all pause and admire my ass.

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nice, right?

i have to confess i did not come by it completely honestly.  there was some major tweaking of the crotch curve on these trousers, the papercut pleated trouser pattern.  before i dove in, i should have done the research to know that older printed versions of this pattern, like the one i have, are infamous for the poorly drafted waist circumference and mysterious too-short waistband.  (i’ve read that this has since been corrected as the pattern has been re-printed)  instead, i winged it with my trouser moulage and hoped for the best.

the result is a fairly good fit in the crotch curve, front and back, and a bit of a disaster in the waist area.  i ended up needing to deepen both pleats on the front by about an inch in addition to pulling in an inch at the center back for a total of about five inches.

and i think it is fairly clear to most discerning eyes that i chose not to interface the waistband.

IMG_0199mistake!  it pulls a bit and is not as stable as it should be.  i did not use the included waistband, instead following kenneth king’s method of cutting a straight waistband on the crosswise grain.  (you can see his detailed explanation of this technique in his jean-ius craftsy class.)  but, in addition to not interfacing the waistband, i also did not steam the stretch out of the crosswise grain or give it any curve, two other no-nos in the waistband department.

speaking of jean-ius, i followed kenneth’s construction method for the zipper fly as well.  i confess to not even checking the papercut instructions on this issue.  for better or for worse, if kenneth has a method for doing something, i’ll basically take that as gospel and go with it.  it was my first time even attempting a fly front and i had zero issues.

IMG_0197a few other construction notes:  i used some scraps of my printed cat cotton for the pockets and the pocket bags.  i stabilized the pocket opening not with a fused piece, like katie intended, but with a piece of muslin cut on the crossgrain (again, a la kenneth).  on the back of the trouser, i made a cutting error that resulted in my left side waist not being even with my right side waist, so did some quick patchwork with a scrap of cammo silk and a piece of lace, just for giggles.  i secured the waistband at the front with an oversized snap, but next time i want to try hooked trouser closures.  i just didn’t realize in this, my first pair of trousers, that they needed to be inserted during waistband construction and not after.

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6 Responses to pleated trousers!

  1. Kat H says:

    Very nice! I’ve been eyeing up that pattern for a while, seeing your pair is seriously encouraging me to go buy it. ;-) Love those pleats at the front!

    And also – CONGRATS for your first pair of pants!! :-)

  2. Gjeometry says:

    Pleated trousers!! And, your first with a fly front?? Wow. I love the pocket lining as well.

  3. nettie says:

    These are awesome!! And your cami assessment made me laugh!

    My first attempt at pants (dead simple, pull-on, ponte pants) were such a complete and total fail that I haven’t even blogged about them.

  4. Pingback: self-drafted skirt in alabama chanin applique | puu's door of time

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