F2276: my first marfy

hello, gorgeous!

after receiving my amazing “double c couture” sweater knit from ann at gorgeous fabrics, i knew it needed something special.  something worthy.  something elegant, something simple.  the fabric said to me, “i deserve tailoring.”  it said, “something with a lining.  blood red.”  it reminded me, “you only have a yard.  find something amazing that will compliment me.”*

*added to the list of things i hear talking to me in my head:  kenneth king, my cat and fabric.

i even asked ann for some advice, debating between a 50s-style cardigan jacket and a tailored vest.  i considered Simplicity 2556, a basic vest from the Project Runway collection that allows lots of options for creativity and tailoring, but decided it was somehow too expected (although don’t be surprised if i pop out a version of that this year.  it’s a great little pattern).

i decided i needed something more striking than the usual range of Big 4 patterns.
i decided it was time for my first marfy.
i was ready.

one can understand that the patterns come with no photos, instructions or seam allowances–and then one can see it for herself!  even prepared, the pattern that arrived was a bit of a shock.  only a bit, though.  i moved right on to the important stuff:

i could see straightaway that the armhole princess curve was too deep, and so was the back curve (although less so).  armed with my trusty moulage and a copy of pattern drafting for fashion design i started drafting a pattern to resemble these pieces:  i converted my two-dart bodice into an armhole princess seam, keeping the wearing ease at zero to compensate for the slight (less than 25%) stretch in the sweater knit.  overall, the knit is very stable, almost like a double knit, so making a pattern didn’t feel as complicated as it might have done.

i used the original pattern pieces to preserve the raglan sleeve, a detail i don’t typically enjoy but felt suited the pattern and my end goals.  i did have some difficulty, though, in determining how best to preserve the front panel of the jacket, which is uninterrupted by a style line, while maintaining the integrity of the armhole princess lines.  you can see in the fashion drawing that the bodice front princess line only goes partway down the front of the jacket.

i am not sure i understood, or understand, the best way to keep the bottom half of my dart, which in turn created the bottom portion of the princess seam, while changing the pattern pieces to fit this design.  in the end, i transferred the dart to that L-shaped seam.  the resulting pattern drawing resembled the original pattern piece.

but it’s amazing to see how different my princess line is–and how seam allowances can change the shape you are looking at:

i made a muslin using some spare double knit.  i’m really quite pleased with the fit.

this piece played a major role in my FNSI plans last weekend, and i made a lot of progress.  more to come on this one for sure.

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