since this is a simplicity pattern, obviously the details are relatively basic. the front bodice has gathers at the neckline instead of darts. the back bodice has a fold-over facing. the skirt is a simple tea-length flare, while the waist band pieces are straight pieces cut on a bodice so they can be folded over and shaped.
the first change kenneth and i made after we adjusted the measurements was to make the gathers into tucks. we both agreed that it was simple, more elegant and more decorative.
in addition to shortening the skirt, kenneth (and a little bit me) re-drafted it entirely, first creating a skirt moulage (in about 10 minutes–who even knew that was possible?) and then teaching me how to close the darts to add flare. i wanted to preserve the fullness of the back skirt, but without gathers, which i felt would be bulky and also not noticeable enough–i feared they would look more like an accident than a design detail. so kenneth tried to teach me how to draft pleats.
it didn’t work. kenneth ended up drafting the pleats (correctly) for me.
also, because i was working with leather, which does not have a bias grain, we needed to re-draw the waist band pieces. this we accomplished by tracing the line of the waist and making two bands of different widths for the same effect.
i plan on completing the back bodice with leather-covered buttons from pat, but for now i have these beauties from pacific trim. although i am regretting my decision not to interface the back denim panel…
but still, j’ai fini … (in the right tense now!)