vogue 9668: revisiting a (former?) favorite after a season in the closet

i’m sure this is an issue that many of you have had to consider, but since i’m relatively new to sewing, it is therefore relatively new to me.  which is to say:  how do you adapt previous favorites as your sewing skills improve and you realize a dress you put your heart and soul into is actually unwearable?

i mean, look at how cute that is, right?

i put beads in the back zipper and everything.

but you know what else i did?  i overfitted it.  this is way, way way pre-moulage, and i didn’t even do a quick-and-dirty SBA from “fast fit” on the bust darts.  so to compensate for my extremely narrow back, i had my mom fit the CB seam by just taking it waaaaaaaaaay in.  like, an inch and a half at  the top tapering down to normal at the bottom.  so it’s tight in the back.  and because i put the zip in before i finished all of the sleeve work, i can’t lift my arms.  at all.  so my shoulders are a bit hunched.

oh, and what else did i do?  i interfaced the bodice for some structure.  this seamed like a great idea at the time and may still be a great idea, but today, right now, it just feels too stiff.

breaks the heart.  i actually got into it with the guy at B&J about buying this fabric because he thought it would be too much for me!  but after seeing tasia’s v9668 i knew i wanted one, and i knew this was the right fabric for it.

how to salvage?  this fabric is still available at B&J (it’s what is called a classic liberty of london print, meaning it is always in print and not a seasonal or art fabric) and on top of that, i still have at least half a yard left.  enough, just barely, to bang out a new bodice for the dress, maybe something in a super simple shape.  maybe the boatneck in simplicity 2444?  i was considering another version of vogue 6453, but a cute little halter with a drawstring is not exactly all-weather wear.  nor is it office-appropriate without a lot of extra sweaters and layers.  i don’t want to do another midriff like this one (i believe it is called a basque midriff?) and i’m not in love enough with the sweetheart to care about preserving it on this particular garment.  stay tuned.

pattern review for V9668 (which, by the way, i still totally agree with.  just not on this version):

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
as others have said, it looked even better. this pattern is so beyond flattering, with its gorgeous, elegant sweetheart neckline…i think i am in love…

Were the instructions easy to follow?
…but not with the instructions. for the most part, the instructions were solid, more than other vogues i have worked with. but as so often seems to be the case the lining instructions were unnecessarily complicated. i wish i had followed my own instinct, for example, on inserting the sleeve self-lining by following a modified bagging technique–i.e., inserting the sleeve and the sleeve linings into their respective armscyes, matching up the hems, and doing a 3/8″ seam. easy, no fuss, no muss, no handsewing, no raw edge. also, only the bodice is indicated for the lining, which i thought strange, so i did the top of the bodice in self-lining as instructed and then did a contrast bemberg on the rest of it.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
the finished garment is beautiful and delightful and the pattern is well-drafted and easy to work with–i would say there is nothing i disliked about the pattern.

Fabric Used:
liberty of london tana lawn “carline”, from B&J Fabrics in NYC.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
none, although i did need to take it in significantly in the back. as best i am aware, i don’t have a “swayback,” but this is something i will have to investigate. also, i did interline the bodice with sew-in interfacing to give it some shape under the liberty. i admit, i may have gone overboard, but by and large i am pleased with the result, which does not feel too structured.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
i would definitely sew it again, either in this view (view A) or one of its friends.

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