weekend sewing studio: a muslin factory (and my new obsession with colette’s pastille)

something in colette patterns has suddenly and irrevocably struck a chord with me and my sense of style.  beginning with my recent purchase of the colette sewing handbook, and heightened most specifically by this fabulous image:

image from coletterie: featured seamstress gail of "today's agenda"

i saw a kindred spirit.  it was either the red tights, a wardrobe staple of mine, or the camper “twins,” of which i have that exact pair.  but really it was her brilliantly executed and deployed colette jasmine.  i knew immediately i needed to have one in every color (more on that in the future, after i have cut them out.  because i have, in fact, assembled fabric from paron’s annex in every color with the express intent of making an entire flock of jasmine blouses.)

in the interim, i seem to have decided to focus on the colette “pastille” dress, which i have (for right now, at least) turned into separates and melded with the meringue skirt.

how do you work on the weekend, friends?  i’ve already discussed my personal friday night sew-in ritual.  another habit of mine these past two years has been to bring a mood bag full of folded fabric to my sewing studio mom’s dining room and spent the weekend cutting through large groups of projects.  among a pile of skirts and several hours’ worth of pattern work, i took the opportunity to do three muslins:

just to be clear, these were the down-and-dirtiest of muslins.  quick cutouts just to make sure my pattern drafting and moulage changes were accurate.  i didn’t even press anything.  the pastille was undeniably the star–so well-drafted that even my mediocre tracing abilities didn’t stand in its way.  the pattern has a lot of excess ease for my taste, but it also has enough integrity to make up for it in spades.

colette "pastille", fitted with a moulage and re-drawn as a blouse

love it. i’m having one of those in every color as well.

the S4186 made out…ok.

love the back.

but i over-fitted the design right out of the bodice--no more waist gathers--and the neck needs to be lowered for more comfort

the moulage work on this one was hard. i hope to finish it to the point to do a full post and share some of the issues with you, but the pattern has gone through 4 drafts, of which this muslin is the 3rd. the only major issue at this stage is that i over-fitted to the point where i took the waist gathers right out of the design, which makes me sad. and i did have some issues understanding how properly to draw french darts. i’m hoping that the next version will be a keeper.

simplicity 4123 doesn’t even get a try-on, because i re-drafted the french dart shape so badly.  but i did sense that the overall fit–especially shoulder height, which is important for me because it affects my narrow back and small bust–was spot-on.  i’ll probably move straight to the real fabric once i fix the dart issue.

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2 Responses to weekend sewing studio: a muslin factory (and my new obsession with colette’s pastille)

  1. So many projects, you make me feel ashamed for my slow sewing and laziness…
    Anyway, I wanted to ask, since you seem to be sewing with lots of vintage patterns and mention it here – don’t you feel all of them tend to have very high necklines compared to modern clothing? My experience is, admittedly, not with patterns but existing items of clothing – a blouse of uncertain date, probably 40s, and early 70s dresses – coming from three different people – all the necklines are a bit too high and tight for me, that is, compared to what I’m used to..

  2. puu says:

    this is the only one where i’ve been so uncomfortable i lowered the neckline, but i have, as i learned more about patterns and looks, started to go for ones with more room at the neckline for pretty much exactly those reasons.

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