so here is the real version of the horrible mobile phone pic i snapped a few months ago, my current obsession/outfit, and one of the first outfits i EVER:
- designed from scratch
- drafted from scratch
- planned for pattern mixing
pretty sweet, right? i have to be honest, drafting this princess bodice sloper took me a lot longer than i think it should have. i kept getting very confused about the process i was following, based on the (usually) excellent patternmaking for fashion design by helen joseph armstrong. the section in this book dealing with many bodice types, including strapless, bustier, surplice, empire, etc, and which included the base princess bodice i was trying to construct, went off of a principle she calls “countouring” which i did not understand at all. it involved a lot of extra line drawing and measurements and was based off of draping a pattern on a standard form and then compensating for that…when i had a personalized moulage to work with.
honestly, i am pretty sure this should have made it easier – that i had the moulage, i mean – but i kept getting lost. finally i just went all the way back to the original moulage pieces, which are based on princess darts, and traced those off. then i took a compass and, following the one guideline in the textbook that i understood, drew a circle with the bust point at the center and a 3″ radius.
the skirt is mostly self-drafted, partially based on the pleated skirt pattern from my version of simplicity 2099 (seen here and here) and partially based on an 80s peasant skirt pattern i inherited from a sewing friend in arizona, which i used as a guide for the length of the back hem. i then taped the two pieces together at the side seams, got out a french curve, and re-drew the hemline for the asymmetry i was looking for. i think i ended up with the front hem about 10″ higher than the back hem.
i have worn this to work, out on weekends, and even to wedding rehearsal dinners. it is awesomesauce. and it has kitty cats. and polka dots.
and, of course, the boots.