i think i should start by saying that i knew this project would be pretty awesome when JC at mood picked out the fabric for us, and imagined getting dressed in this roberto cavalli fabric. “it would be like #cavallimorning,” is what he said, thereby cementing the magic.
which was good, because this project leading up to that point had been slightly problematic. my original plan was to duplicate my cynthia rowley top for my sister in a designer silk of her choosing. however, when trying on the top at my apartment, my sister realized that she didn’t like it on her as much as she would have hoped. the neckline gathers that had so charmed this wearer made her feel uncomfortable and busty, like the fabric was doing too much work. being much too lazy to do an FBA on my precious pattern, i turned straight to the bias-cut taffy, knowing it would give great shape and great drape and have the usual generous bust darts that so frequently vex me on colette patterns. (we did swap out the colette flutter sleeves for the simplicity sleeve, though.) having settled that, we were off to mood.
this green and white crepe-de-chine with its oversize tropical leaf motif is not something either of us would ever have gone for were it not for JC. it was a great step out of the box for my sister, and i loved getting to work with the fabric because it was smooth and silky but not as troublesome as a chiffon or a georgette or a charmeuse.
in a scheme that would make even tom sawyer and his fence-painting plan look short-sighted, i persuaded my sister to handle the layout and cutting on a single layer of the fabric while i took a nap. i justified it thusly:
- i had already copied the pattern pieces with the appropriate built-in swayback and made them work on a single layer of fabric
- i didn’t want to be responsible if there was a headlights situation on the print
- and, most importantly to both of us, i wanted her to decide how the mix of green and white and SIGNATURES (signed “just cavalli”) fell on the garment and on her body
it was really the signature issue that sold her, because she was really excited about the cavalli print and wanted that signature to be a design element on her garment. (and knowing that she is more exacting than i am, she agreed that letting me be responsible for that placement would not be the best choice!)
the only other tweak we made was to cut it in a size 2, and then construct it leaving the side seams open so that we could fit it that way. i ended up taking in enough that we should have stuck with the straight size 0. i finished everything with a french seam and trimmed all the edges with green charmeuse bias binding.
i think what was most interesting was the commentary i got from my sister about its wearability as she was getting dressed this morning. she loved the bias cut, because it hugs her shoulders and then drapes and flares at the hem, but for her these things are completely negated by tucking the blouse in. “then my chest looks wide and boxy” is what she said to me, which i had sort of experienced with my cynthia rowley butterfly top but not to that extent. so she had to get a little creative about what to wear. fortunately, that holy grail known as a perfect pair of black trousers solved her dilemma, as you can see!
bias-cut blouse with flutter sleeves, french darts and tie-backs.
0-16. i started with a 2 but ended up sizing down to a 0.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
i love how the simple bias-cut bodice has amazing drape and shape and is easy to work with. it’s a great canvas for any kind of fabric or finish.
roberto cavailli “just cavalli” crepe-de-chine from mood fabrics
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
i swapped out the flutter sleeve for a simpler sleeve from simplicity 2593, eliminated the tie-back, and nipped up the back for a built-in swayback adjustment.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
yes, i already have three cut out for myself in addition to this one i made for my sister.
easy pattern, easy to use, great results.