pleated trousers!



because, dammit, they deserve an exclamation point!!


and my smug smile of smugness.


because who wouldn’t be smug after completing her first pair of trousers and then fearlessly inserting a zip-front fly with a custom-length zipper the resulted in broken zipper teeth flung hither and thither in the sewing room?!


we’ll try to ignore the partial fail that is my colette nutmeg cami.  try as i may, i just cannot get those patterns to work for me.  it’s simultaneously too big in the top and too short in the top – what?! – and too tight along the side seams while being too wide at the armscye.

i think we’ll just call it a hot mess of gorgeous silk-cotton cammo and move on to happier things.

like my trousers.

and at this point in the narrative, let us all pause and admire my ass.


nice, right?

i have to confess i did not come by it completely honestly.  there was some major tweaking of the crotch curve on these trousers, the papercut pleated trouser pattern.  before i dove in, i should have done the research to know that older printed versions of this pattern, like the one i have, are infamous for the poorly drafted waist circumference and mysterious too-short waistband.  (i’ve read that this has since been corrected as the pattern has been re-printed)  instead, i winged it with my trouser moulage and hoped for the best.

the result is a fairly good fit in the crotch curve, front and back, and a bit of a disaster in the waist area.  i ended up needing to deepen both pleats on the front by about an inch in addition to pulling in an inch at the center back for a total of about five inches.

and i think it is fairly clear to most discerning eyes that i chose not to interface the waistband.

IMG_0199mistake!  it pulls a bit and is not as stable as it should be.  i did not use the included waistband, instead following kenneth king’s method of cutting a straight waistband on the crosswise grain.  (you can see his detailed explanation of this technique in his jean-ius craftsy class.)  but, in addition to not interfacing the waistband, i also did not steam the stretch out of the crosswise grain or give it any curve, two other no-nos in the waistband department.

speaking of jean-ius, i followed kenneth’s construction method for the zipper fly as well.  i confess to not even checking the papercut instructions on this issue.  for better or for worse, if kenneth has a method for doing something, i’ll basically take that as gospel and go with it.  it was my first time even attempting a fly front and i had zero issues.

IMG_0197a few other construction notes:  i used some scraps of my printed cat cotton for the pockets and the pocket bags.  i stabilized the pocket opening not with a fused piece, like katie intended, but with a piece of muslin cut on the crossgrain (again, a la kenneth).  on the back of the trouser, i made a cutting error that resulted in my left side waist not being even with my right side waist, so did some quick patchwork with a scrap of cammo silk and a piece of lace, just for giggles.  i secured the waistband at the front with an oversized snap, but next time i want to try hooked trouser closures.  i just didn’t realize in this, my first pair of trousers, that they needed to be inserted during waistband construction and not after.

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6 Responses to pleated trousers!

  1. Kat H says:

    Very nice! I’ve been eyeing up that pattern for a while, seeing your pair is seriously encouraging me to go buy it. 😉 Love those pleats at the front!

    And also – CONGRATS for your first pair of pants!! 🙂

  2. Gjeometry says:

    Pleated trousers!! And, your first with a fly front?? Wow. I love the pocket lining as well.

  3. nettie says:

    These are awesome!! And your cami assessment made me laugh!

    My first attempt at pants (dead simple, pull-on, ponte pants) were such a complete and total fail that I haven’t even blogged about them.

  4. Pingback: self-drafted skirt in alabama chanin applique | puu's door of time

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