new look 6028: the original shortcut-style chanel jacket

believe it or not, friends, but this is – technically – the first chanel-style jacket i ever contemplated making. a year before taking susan khalje’s french jacket course even entered my head, i began wondering if i could do one on my own.


the pattern is new look 6028 and the concept began with a simple idea: black, white, pink. it’s been so long ago i literally do not remember how or why i got so fixated on this color scheme: at this point it just is black, white, pink and i do not question it.

i found the fashion fabric first at the much-missed paron’s annex. i liked the price – half off – and i thought it would be a good “wearable muslin” until i worked up the courage to try a proper one.

i then spent some time at the “go chanel or go home” blog, originally set up as a group sew-along for inspired jacketeers, and i found one example that scared me stiff because i became convinced that my fate lay within. one of the participants did all of the work, the endless hours, and, because the weave of her fabric was so loose, the plaid drooped. can you imagine the heartbreak? i could, all to easily. i was absolutely certain that this would happen to me and determined first to block-fuse my fabric to avoid the issue.

naturally, this led to other issues of procrastination – i needed to get the right interfacing (fashion sewing supply pro-sheer elegance) – and then find a day off to do the block fusing, which never happened, so everything went into a bag until about a month before my second go at camp chanel.


because why would you NOT wear heart tights and combat boots with your LFJ?

just to recap my process – the actual construction process, not the long-winded wind up to get us there – i combined the “couture” method with the “shortcut” method as described in threads magazine issue #128.  i thread-traced my pattern pieces, then fused each piece on its own (not including seam allowances).  then i constructed the jacket and the lining by machine, leaving the shoulders on each free.  i bagged out the lining and pinned everything in place for quilting.

i kept the trim simple, just an inch-wide beaded black, because i want this to be my “casual” jacket.  i am fairly convinced that this, like everything else, will look awesome with my “han shot first” dolman for when i really want to tone it down!

20140317-200914.jpgi like the fit of the jacket body – snug and cropped – and i actually like the sleeves a lot even though they look a bit odd in these photos.  and, as i’ve said before, my new hybridized couture-slash-shortcut method has netted me some of my best chanel-style construction to date.

i can hear you now:  “wow, puu, that was exhaustive – and exhausting – and surely you are by now as bored of these as we are!”

sorry, friends.  currently on the table:


for those who came in late:
you may or may not know that i have something of a compulsion when it comes to making “little french jackets.”  here is my work thus far:
vogue 7975: seventy hours well spent
return to camp chanel: day two, day three; day four
forgive me, susan khalje, for i have sinned: “shortcut method” experiments
WIP updates: little (or long) french jackets
butterick 5952: cry hallelujah, it is finished
la coco, elle est terminee
bonus jacket: butterick 5952, shortcut style


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17 Responses to new look 6028: the original shortcut-style chanel jacket

  1. Maddie says:

    Is this the Chanel jacket you were talking about? My, it’s freaking awesome! I’m going to have to dive into your old posts to see what others you have made.

  2. Bobbi says:

    Great jacket! Great outfit!

  3. sewbecause says:

    You aren’t kidding, you do love your French jackets! They are so fab, amazing details and trims! You should brunch in Paris in them! Beautiful work! How do you find the time?

    • puu says:

      honestly? i have no life. i am just an introverted kid who likes her cat, her jackets, and her garden. 🙂 but it feels worth it when i can pack them with me for brunch in paris! 😉

  4. nettie says:

    Another winner!! You are totally making me want to take Susan’s course! And I was never a fan of Chanel jackets! And anyway, I think of them as Devra jackets, now! Lol

    • puu says:

      LOL! i LOVE IT. thanks, nettie. i could so see you rocking out a colorful, fitted, hip-length number with a graffiti-inspired silk lining. you would be one hot mama!

  5. Amanda says:

    Wow, you really are the queen of jackets! You’re giving my former roommate a run for her money (our hall closet was about 85-90% full with her jackets and coats). I love your Chanel jacket. You pick the coolest fabrics! Thanks again for hosting Saturday – it was so much fun. 🙂

  6. Lynn says:

    Oh, that’s a perfect little jacket. I might have to get that pattern. (Darn, another pattern. I was just talking about having too many patterns this morning.)

  7. Grace says:

    Ooooo. I love seeing your french couture jackets. Keep ’em coming. It was lovely to meet you at the sewing meetup and chat with you a bit about the process. I will soon be digging mine out of hibernation again.

    • puu says:

      excellent! i will look forward to seeing it! sometimes i feel like i am a french jacket missionary. if you do not already follow her, make sure and check out leisa stanton’s “challenging sew” blog. i am an amateur compared to her.

  8. Pingback: me-made-everyday: style report | puu's door of time

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