WIP report: marfy 1756, or as i like to call it, THE BEST JACKET EVER

as i mentioned last week i’m deep in the weeds on my latest (and greatest) chanel-style jacket.

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it’s ridiculous, truly, how many i have by now:  7, to be honest.  BUT.  but.  three are for “every day” wear.  two are long and for special occasions.  one is sleeveless and backless (and still needs its lining fell-stitched for completion) and one is sleeveless and has a tie-dye lining.

but times they are a-changing, folks, and as i was turning over my closet last weekend for the last gasp of warm weather before the harsh rawness of fall really sinks in for good (and then gives way to the dreaded winter) i was overwhelmed by how much amazing stuff i have from my pre-sewing days that just don’t work in my life any more.  mostly suits, to be honest – while i’ve never been a sensible black suit and pearls kind of girl, i have found ways to express myself in a business-appropriate manner.  maybe a few dresses that i’ve gotten beyond.  but what i really thought was:  i want a chanel, a wearable chanel, for every day of the week.

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i know.  I KNOW.

but couple that with my recent completion of the jean-ius jean draft, and the release of the ginger pattern (i got a kit!  i can’t wait to test out that fabric, plus i got to support two of my sewing friends in their real-life business endeavors), and i immediately understood that my winter wearings would bounce back and forth between my amazing skirt collection and the time-honored chanel-jeans combo.

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so that makes all of my bloody fingers this wednesday morning totally worth it.

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what happened was, i needed to be able to hand-sew the facings.  but the facings are leather.  none of the selections out of my singer kit were going to cut it, and my more delicate clover needles were out of the question.  so i procured a few glovers’ needles at the FIT bookstore saturday afternoon, and damn if those things do not slide in and out of leather (and fingers!) like buttah.

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so here’s been my construction order so far:

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  • started with:  marfy 1756, mostly for the lovely collar drafting.  blended it with my TNT vogue 7975 pattern and made a muslin
  • used the muslin to thread trace my pattern pieces
  • quilted the lining to the side front, center  back
  • assembled jacket starting at collar/shoulders and going down to the side seams
  • tailored the front facings on the boucle side
  • fused the leather with fusible hair canvas for extra shape
  • handsewed the zipper in between the layers
  • closed up the lining seams using piping

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because the fashion fabric is such a loud plaid, i had to do all of that before i can even contemplate beginning the sleeves, which i intend to be three pieces, with a leather undersleeve, and an open sleeve vent, in a 3/4 length.

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23 Responses to WIP report: marfy 1756, or as i like to call it, THE BEST JACKET EVER

  1. Val Batty says:

    I’ve had this pattern for quite a while but wanted something different to the usual Chanel knock off, I wanted a zip down the front but wanted to see it first hoping someone else had done it. Yours is the first picture I have seen and I like it although I’ll stop at the top, not going into a collar. I think i might go for zips on the pockets as well.

    Lovely fabric colour, got some meat to it, not what I call an airy fairy colour.l

    • puu says:

      i’m definitely enjoying my zip front as a change from the usual. as you can see i omitted the pockets (for now); if i go back and do pockets i will do a more traditional patch pocket handsewn on. but i think zips on the pockets would be a wonderful detail! leisa (at a challenging sew) was telling me that a classmate of hers also tried front zips on a chanel-style jacket with wonderful results.

  2. jay says:

    This is going to be terrific!

  3. Laurie says:

    Whoa! That zipper and fabric! This IS going to be great!

  4. Wendy Hull says:

    WOw! How sensational, where did you get that zipper from?

  5. Mem says:

    WHere did you get that zip . Love your jacket so far definitely avoiding the grandma look

  6. sj kurtz says:

    I have one of those zips, in a jacket I made some years back. I don’t remember the brand, it was a local store purchase. It does punch up what could be a really large, boring zipper space. When I eventually take that jacket apart, I will save the zip. It’s pretty dang good.

  7. Megan says:

    Best jacket ever is right. I love the leather and boucle combo. Can’t wait to see it finished.

  8. Cynthia Robertson says:

    Brilliant! The fabric and the zipper work SO well. Well done, waiting for the finished article.

  9. Lisette says:

    I love the rainbow zipper! This is looking so gorgeous, now I’m a bit jealous of your ability to pull off a Chanel jacket. There’s a good Threads magazine with an article on unique sleeve trimmings and treatments that Chanel did on her jackets and how to recreate them. I have a copy somewhere…

    • puu says:

      i think i have that one too, though if i trim the jacket i will probably keep it really, really simple. this is such a modern look already and i want to stay true to that!

  10. oonaballoona says:

    i feel a heretofore unachieved level of jealousy coming on.

  11. gingermakes says:

    Dang, girl! I’m almost pissed looking at this. I want to be sewing jackets right now!!!!!

  12. CarmencitaB says:

    Ralala! I’m hyperventilating already and it’s not finished yet!

  13. Ooo this is going to be a work of art! Love the sound of those sleeves and adding leather to it was a great move. So great to be able to see it in progress too!

  14. Mette says:

    This jacket is EPIC! So cool – you are so talented in both design and tecnical skills! I’m going to follow your process on this one, since I’m still afraid to cut into the fashion fabric of my first “Shanel” jacket..

    • puu says:

      what’s great – if you are doing it the ‘couture’ way – is that by thread tracing and planning you’re actually half way through the process, or more, before you’ve done anything irrevocable. even quilting can always be taken out. so i say go for it. or, if you want to practice, get some awesome but less expensive boucle (all relative, of course, but $20/yd is more affordable than $40, $50, and $150, all of which i have paid for boucle before!) and practice techniques or use the shortcut method.

      there’s not actually anything to be afraid of! good luck!!

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