as i mentioned last week i’m deep in the weeds on my latest (and greatest) chanel-style jacket.
it’s ridiculous, truly, how many i have by now: 7, to be honest. BUT. but. three are for “every day” wear. two are long and for special occasions. one is sleeveless and backless (and still needs its lining fell-stitched for completion) and one is sleeveless and has a tie-dye lining.
but times they are a-changing, folks, and as i was turning over my closet last weekend for the last gasp of warm weather before the harsh rawness of fall really sinks in for good (and then gives way to the dreaded winter) i was overwhelmed by how much amazing stuff i have from my pre-sewing days that just don’t work in my life any more. mostly suits, to be honest – while i’ve never been a sensible black suit and pearls kind of girl, i have found ways to express myself in a business-appropriate manner. maybe a few dresses that i’ve gotten beyond. but what i really thought was: i want a chanel, a wearable chanel, for every day of the week.
i know. I KNOW.
but couple that with my recent completion of the jean-ius jean draft, and the release of the ginger pattern (i got a kit! i can’t wait to test out that fabric, plus i got to support two of my sewing friends in their real-life business endeavors), and i immediately understood that my winter wearings would bounce back and forth between my amazing skirt collection and the time-honored chanel-jeans combo.
so that makes all of my bloody fingers this wednesday morning totally worth it.
what happened was, i needed to be able to hand-sew the facings. but the facings are leather. none of the selections out of my singer kit were going to cut it, and my more delicate clover needles were out of the question. so i procured a few glovers’ needles at the FIT bookstore saturday afternoon, and damn if those things do not slide in and out of leather (and fingers!) like buttah.
so here’s been my construction order so far:
- started with: marfy 1756, mostly for the lovely collar drafting. blended it with my TNT vogue 7975 pattern and made a muslin
- used the muslin to thread trace my pattern pieces
- quilted the lining to the side front, center back
- assembled jacket starting at collar/shoulders and going down to the side seams
- tailored the front facings on the boucle side
- fused the leather with fusible hair canvas for extra shape
- handsewed the zipper in between the layers
- closed up the lining seams using piping
because the fashion fabric is such a loud plaid, i had to do all of that before i can even contemplate beginning the sleeves, which i intend to be three pieces, with a leather undersleeve, and an open sleeve vent, in a 3/4 length.